Get Back to Nature
In this article we will discuss the setup and maintenance of an African Rift Lake style aquarium. This style aquarium offers the hobbyist an opportunity to display some of the super colorful Rift Lake Fishes. This article also has some recommendations of the different types of African Cichlids that are kept in these aquariums. Read on to learn more.

A fully stocked Malawi Cichlid Rift Lake Style Aquarium.

Table of Contents African Rift Lake Aquarium Geography Equipment Habitat Water Chemistry Setup Species Feeding Maintenance Books

Where in the world is Lake Malawi?
Lake Malawi was formed 1-2 million years ago in Africa. This rocky lake of the East African Rift is about 375 miles (604 km) long and 53 miles (85 km) wide, making it the ninth largest lake in the world. The lake is bordered by Malawi, Mozambique, and Tanzania.

Lake Malawi is one of Africa's Rift lakes, as is Lake Victoria and Lake Tanganyika. Africa, over the course of millions of years, is being pulled apart by geologic forces. The Rift lakes are the result of this geologic action and form the “seam” of this separation. These Rift lakes are often described as inland seas, due in part to their huge size and also because the water is very hard (alkaline) containing a large quantity of minerals with a high salt content.

Map showing location of Lake Malawi in Africa.

Aquarium
We recommend a minimum size of at least 50 gallons for Malawi Cichlids. With an African Cichlid style aquarium, the bigger the better!

SeaClear 50 Gallon

Filtration
African Cichlids can create quite a mess with their eating habits. We recommend using canister filters with good mechanical, chemical and biological filtration. Power filters with good flow are also a good choice. Some hobbyists have had great results using a combination of both style filters when using the “crowding” method for controlling African Cichlids natural aggression.

Fluval 304 Canister Filter

Optional Filtration

Penguin 200

Lighting
It is not necessary for the lighting in an African Cichlid aquarium to be intense. These style aquariums usually do not contain any plants or other organisms that require a lot of light. We recommend choosing bulbs that have 6,700K daylight or higher Kelvin rating.

36" Freshwater Aqualight Single 1x96 watt

Heating
Having super reliable heating in any style aquarium is very important. African cichlids prefer a water temperature of 76-78F. A good rule of thumb for selecting aquarium heaters is to have about 5 watts per gallon.

Stealth 250 Watt Heater

Other Equipment
Aqua Buys recommends the use of a digital thermometer. The accuracy of these units is amazing and most have a built in alarm for low/high temperature. This offers better protection for your investment in your aquatic pets than the cheaper thermometers.

Digital Thermometer

Habitat

Lake Malawi is mostly comprised of rock and sand.

Now, lets take a look at the African Cichlid aquarium’s decoration. Lake Malawi, being a rift lake, is naturally rocky both along its shoreline and below the water. This however, is not necessarily the case for the whole lake. There are many locations comprised of sandy beaches with sand below the waterline in addition to intermingled habitats having a mixture of both large rocks and sand. For the most part the lake is void of plants and those that do occur tend to be near river mouths and in swampy areas. The general theme of the lake is rock and sand.

Aqua Buys recommends replicating these environments as closely as possible. The recreation of an aquatic ecosystem in another part of the world makes for great conversation when someone asks about your aquarium and will increase your enjoyment of the aquarium hobby.

Before deciding on decor, a little research on the African Cichlid species you intend to keep may be necessary. In general, there are two groups of cichlids in lake Malawi. The mbuna, or rock dwellers, like to hang out in the rocky parts of the lake and would do well in an aquarium with lots of rockwork including caves and other rock formations. On the other hand, the non-mbuna, often referred to as the Peacocks, spend most of their time in the intermingled sandy areas of the lake and do not require as much rockwork.

Two styles of rock structures for Malawi Cichlids.

Mbuna style structure with caves and overhangs.

Peacock style structure with more open swim space.

Selecting Rocks
You can buy rocks at your local landscape supply store. Be sure to choose a variety of round rocks and flat rocks. River rock is a good choice considering it is primarily round. Slate is great for creating flat areas or roofs of caves. Calcareous rock such as limestone is also good to include for its buffering abilities. Make note of any rock that have a high amount of metal content and avoid them. If you notice a rock that has a shiny or rust colored vein it should be suspect. You can test for metal content on suspect rocks by pouring a small amount of vinegar or lemon juice on the suspect area. If the rocks fizz or bubble it needs to be discarded.

Also be wary of any rocks with excessively sharp edges. These sharp edges can harm the fish if they run into it when darting through the aquarium.

Plants
African Cichlid aquariums can contain plants in small groups. Please remember that these fish have a tendency to dig and will uproot plants. The plants will need to be anchored well so the fish will have a tough time uprooting them. Vallisneria beds occur naturally in the lake and would be good a plant choice. Two other recommendations for plants in the African Cichlid aquarium are the Anubias and Java Fern.

Substrate
Choosing the right substrate can also assist in buffering the water and maintaining the kind of conditions that these fish prefer. We recommend using a darker color substrate as a lighter color substrate can cause excessive reflection and stress the fish. The darker substrates will also enhance the natural coloration of the fish.

Eco-Complete African Cichlid Gravel
or
Eco-Complete African Cichlid Sand

Water Chemistry

The rift lakes in Africa generally have very alkaline, hard water. The pH ranges on the high side and there is some salt content in the water.

Lake Malawi Water Chemistry
pH 7.8 to 8.4
Hardness 4.0 to 6.0 dH
Carbonate hardness 6.0 to 8.0 dKH
Surface temperature 76 to 85 F

You will want to keep your aquarium water with in these ranges to keep your fish happy. Tap water is generally OK for use in an African Cichlid tank. You will need to use a tap water conditioner / chlorine remover to remove the excess chlorine and heavy metal content before adding to your aquarium. Test your tap water and compare the results to the chart above. If you are not in these ranges you will need to add some African Cichlid buffers to your water to achieve the right conditions for your fish.

Additives

Cichlid Lake Salt

Malawi Buffer

Cichlid Trace Elements

NovAqua Water Conditioner

Control Equipment

PH Monitor

Setup

This chart is a timeline describing step-by-step setup of your African Cichlid aquarium. After the chart is an explanation of each step.

After you have collected all the components you need to set up your African Cichlid aquarium you can begin to assemble the system. This is a good weekend project. Choose a good spot for your aquarium that is not too close to a window or air vent. Direct sunlight can cause the tank to heat up to dangerous temperatures very quickly and also can cause excessive algae growth. Be sure to leave enough space behind the tank for equipment and check for clearance from the wall. You will also want to make sure that the flooring will support the weight of a full aquarium. Aquariums can weigh as much as 10-12 lbs per gallon when full not including any rocks or gravel!

Take a moment to thoroughly clean the tank’s glass using only freshwater and a new clean sponge. This will remove any dust or residue on the tank. You want the glass to be sparking clear.

Wet Test
It’s a good idea to do a “wet test” with all your equipment. You will need to fill the aquarium with tap water and check the aquarium for any leaks. Install the filter, heater, lights and other equipment according to the manufacturers instructions. Plug all the electrical equipment into a grounded power strip. We recommend the use of a GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupt) outlet to prevent any electrical mishaps. This will help protect you and your aquatic pets!

Plug in the power strip and turn on all of your equipment. Check that the filter is flowing properly, the lights are working and that the heater is doing its job as well. You will want to run everything for about 24 hours as this will also serve to clean the equipment a bit before you actually set everything up.

After your done with the ‘wet test” turn all of the equipment off in the tank and drain out the tap water and unplug everything. Be sure and empty the water out of the filter.

This is the typical aquarium setup for African Cichlids. Note - dual filters are optional.

Aquascaping
If you plan on keeping Mbuna Cichlids you will want to have a good amount of rock with lots of caves and overhangs. These areas will allow the fish to establish natural territory and provide possible breeding sites. The substrate can be mostly gravel with a bit of sandy areas.

The Peacock Cichlids are more of an open water species and do not require as much rockwork. You will still want to have some rock in the tank. The substrate can be mostly sand with a bit of gravel in some areas.

Installing the Rocks

Be sure to remove any equipment such as glass heaters and filter tubes before you begin aquascaping. It is also a good idea to place a piece of “eggcrate material” in the bottom of your tank before you place in any gravel or rock. This will provide extra support for the rockwork and protect the glass of the aquarium if a rock falls. If your tank is acrylic this can also help protect the tank from being scratched by the rock.

Stacked rocks create a great environment for African Cichlids.

After placing the “eggcrate” you can begin placing in the base rocks. These rocks should be placed directly on the “eggcrate” before any gravel is added. African Cichlids like to dig and rocks placed on top of gravel are more likely to topple.

After you get most of the foundation rock in place you can add the gravel and/or sand. Rinse the gravel several times in a large bucket before adding it to the aquarium. Fill in the areas around the rocks as much as possible. Note that the gravel bed does not have to be very deep. You need just enough to cover the “eggcrate” material and probably no more than 1” total.

Now you can build up the rest of the rockwork. You need to consider securing the upper rockwork to prevent the rocks from falling over and breaking the aquarium glass. You may use non-toxic silicone to secure the rocks as you work. For taller rock structures it may be necessary to silicone some of the rocks, let it cure for 24 hours, then build some more, let it cure for 24 hours and so on. This method will create a more stable structure. Let the silicone cure completely as directed before filling the aquarium.

Another option is to use Aqua-Stik to “glue” the rocks together. This is a water friendly epoxy that cures quickly and also comes in a gray slate color. Aqua-stik can be used and the tank filled immediately.

Filling the Aquarium
Tap water will usually work well for African Cichlid aquariums. Try to run the water over the rocks as you are filling the tank to avoid disturbing the gravel. Be sure to add some chlorine remover / water conditioner to the tap water. You will also need to add some Cichlid salts and possibly some Cichlid buffer to the water to match the conditions of Lake Malawi. Use a test kit and test the water for the following parameters.

pH 7.8 to 8.4
Hardness 4.0 to 6.0 dH
Carbonate hardness 6.0 to 8.0 dKH

The temperature should be about 76 to 78 F. If it is lower than this you will need to run the heater to bring it up to temp. After you fill the aquarium plug in all the equipment and crank her up!

Once the aquarium is filled, the water parameters are correct and the equipment has run for about 24 hours you may add 1-2 fish. Yippee! Keep in mind that it usually takes about 4-6 weeks for the aquarium to cycle. You will be able to add more fish after the cycle is complete. For more information on the Nitrogen Cycle read our article on Cycling Your Aquarium.

Species

There is a huge number of Malawi Cichlids that can be kept in the aquarium. We can cover a few of the more popular here.

Mbuna

Yellow Lab Labidochromis caeruleus Temper: Semi-aggressive Adult size: 5 in Feeding: Omnivore

Red Zebra Pseudotropheus zebra Temper: Aggressive Adult size: 5 in Feeding: Omnivore

Johanni Melanochromis johanni Temper: Aggressive Adult size: 4.5 in Feeding: Omnivore

Red Top Labeotropheus trewavasae Temper: Semi-aggressive Adult size: 4 in Feeding: Omnivore

Peacocks

Red Shoulder Aulonocara hansbaenschi Temper: Semi-aggressive Adult size: 4.5 in Feeding: Omnivore

Electric Blue Sciaenochromis freyeri Temper: Aggressive Adult size: 4.5 in Feeding: Omnivore

A few things to keep in mind when stocking African Cichlids:

• Try to keep a trio of each species with one male to two females.
• Be sure to match sizes when adding fish. Do not place juveniles in a tank stocked with adult size fish.
• “Crowding” can control the more aggressive species.
• Avoid keeping similar looking species that can be mistaken by males as competition.

Stocking
A recommended stocking level for African Cichlids is about one adult fish (4-5” size) for every 5-6 gallons of water. This is just a general guideline and you may be able to keep more or less depending on the aggressiveness of the species you choose to keep. Crowding the tank with slightly higher stocking levels can control aggression but requires very good filtration and consistent water changes.

Feeding

African Cichlids are generally either herbivores or omnivores, requiring some green food in their diet.

In the natural habitat of lake Malawi, many of them feed on 'Aufwachs' - a German word which refers to the algae covering the rock. It is possible to recreate this natural condition in the aquarium but it will most likely be necessary to feed Spirulina flake as a substitute. They should also be fed a staple of cichlid pellets and frozen/live foods such as brine shrimp. Most African Cichlids are essentially grazers and will benefit from regular smaller feedings 2 – 3 times a day. Be sure and feed no more than they can consume in one minute.

Flake – Cichlid Omni Flake

Freeze Dried – Ocean Nutrition Cichlid Salad

Try to avoid feeding only dry flake, or any high protein foods such as bloodworm, tubifex and beefheart. These are not suitable for Malawi Cichlids, and can cause the fatal "Malawi bloat" condition.

Maintenance

Water changes
Water changes are the basis for successful aquarium keeping! This is the easiest thing you can do as an aquarium owner to maintain a healthy environment for your aquatic pets. Water changes help to remove high concentrations of contaminants and replenish lost trace elements. You will need a few basic pieces of equipment including a large, clean plastic bucket, a gravel vacuum, a thermometer and African Cichlid additives (see Water Chemistry above).

Gravel Vacuum

Pocket pH and Temp Tester

Water changes are easy. Simply siphon out 15% to 20% of the aquarium water into a bucket and dump it. You will need to replace it with water that matches the aquariums current conditions especially temperature and pH. Note that any very rapid changes in temperature or pH can stress your fish. Be sure to add some chlorine remover / water conditioner if you are using tap water. You will also need to add some Cichlid salts and Cichlid buffer to the water to match the conditions of Lake Malawi. Use a test kit and test the water for the following parameters:

pH 7.8 to 8.4
Hardness 4.0 to 6.0 dH
Carbonate hardness 6.0 to 8.0 dKH

Freshwater Test Kits

A good water change schedule is about 20% of the aquarium volume every two weeks. This is also a good time to vacuum the gravel. Although filters do a great job of keeping the aquarium clean they may not remove all of the food and debris. Over time this waste will end up collecting in the substrate. Try to vacuum the gravel at every other water change.

Filter Maintenance
Each month you should take your filter apart and do the maintenance recommended by the manufacturer. The chemical and mechanical media in the filter will need to be replaced every four to six weeks. Try to alternate the replacement of this media to avoid depleting your filter of biological cultures. The biological media should not need to be replaced if you maintain the other parts of your filter system.

Cleaning the Glass
Keeping your glass sparkling clear can significantly enhance the enjoyment of your aquarium. Use a magnet cleaner to keep the inside glass sparkling clear and free of algae build up. If the glass gets encrusted you my need to use a scraper to remove the algae.

You may also need to clean the outside of the glass to remove fingerprints and other residue. Use a clean paper towel with freshwater to clean the outside glass. If the outside glass gets excessively dirty you may use glass cleaner to clean it. Be extremely careful when using glass cleaner. Do not spray the cleaner directly onto the tank glass. Spray a paper towel, away from the tank, and then wipe the glass clean. It is also a good idea to wipe the tank down with freshwater to remove any leftover glass cleaner residue.

Algae Scraper

Acrylic aquariums must be treated with special care since acrylic scratches very easily. Be sure to use cleaning devices designed for use on acrylic aquariums.

Books

If you are interested in more information on keeping African Cichlids here is a list of some great books:

Guide to Malawi Cichlids (Back to Nature)
by Ad Konings

The Pictorial Guide (Cichlids)
by Pablo Tepoot, Ian Tepoot