African Rift Lake Aquarium
By Sam Pol
(updated 1-11-09)
Get Back to Nature
In this article we will discuss the setup and maintenance of an African Rift
Lake style aquarium. This style aquarium offers the hobbyist an opportunity
to display some of the super colorful Rift Lake Fishes. This article also has
some recommendations of the different types of African Cichlids that are kept
in these aquariums. Read on to learn more.
A fully stocked Malawi Cichlid Rift Lake Style Aquarium.
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Where in the world is Lake Malawi?
Lake Malawi was formed 1-2 million years ago in Africa. This rocky lake of the
East African Rift is about 375 miles (604 km) long and 53 miles (85 km) wide,
making it the ninth largest lake in the world. The lake is bordered by Malawi,
Mozambique, and Tanzania.
Lake Malawi is one of Africa's Rift lakes, as is Lake Victoria
and Lake Tanganyika. Africa, over the course of millions of years, is being
pulled apart by geologic forces. The Rift lakes are the result of this geologic
action and form the “seam” of this separation. These Rift lakes
are often described as inland seas, due in part to their huge size and also
because the water is very hard (alkaline) containing a large quantity of minerals
with a high salt content.
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| Map showing location of Lake Malawi in Africa. |
Aquarium
We recommend a minimum size of at least 50 gallons for Malawi Cichlids. With
an African Cichlid style aquarium, the bigger the better!
Filtration
African Cichlids can create quite a mess with their eating habits. We recommend
using canister filters with good mechanical, chemical and biological filtration.
Power filters with good flow are also a good choice. Some hobbyists have had
great results using a combination of both style filters when using the “crowding”
method for controlling African Cichlids natural aggression.
Optional Filtration
Lighting
It is not necessary for the lighting in an African Cichlid aquarium to be intense.
These style aquariums usually do not contain any plants or other organisms that
require a lot of light. We recommend choosing bulbs that have 6,700K daylight
or higher Kelvin rating.
Heating
Having super reliable heating in any style aquarium is very important. African
cichlids prefer a water temperature of 76-78F. A good rule of thumb for selecting
aquarium heaters is to have about 5 watts per gallon.
Other Equipment
Aqua Buys recommends the use of a digital thermometer. The accuracy of these
units is amazing and most have a built in alarm for low/high temperature. This
offers better protection for your investment in your aquatic pets than the cheaper
thermometers.
Habitat
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| Lake Malawi is mostly comprised of rock and sand. |
Now, lets take a look at the African Cichlid aquarium’s
decoration. Lake Malawi, being a rift lake, is naturally rocky both along its
shoreline and below the water. This however, is not necessarily the case for
the whole lake. There are many locations comprised of sandy beaches with sand
below the waterline in addition to intermingled habitats having a mixture of
both large rocks and sand. For the most part the lake is void of plants and
those that do occur tend to be near river mouths and in swampy areas. The general
theme of the lake is rock and sand.
Aqua Buys recommends replicating these environments as closely as possible.
The recreation of an aquatic ecosystem in another part of the world makes for
great conversation when someone asks about your aquarium and will increase your
enjoyment of the aquarium hobby.
Before deciding on decor, a little research on the African Cichlid species
you intend to keep may be necessary. In general, there are two groups of cichlids
in lake Malawi. The mbuna, or rock dwellers, like to hang out in the rocky parts
of the lake and would do well in an aquarium with lots of rockwork including
caves and other rock formations. On the other hand, the non-mbuna, often referred
to as the Peacocks, spend most of their time in the intermingled sandy areas
of the lake and do not require as much rockwork.
Two styles of rock structures for Malawi Cichlids.
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| Mbuna style structure with caves and overhangs. |
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| Peacock style structure with more open swim
space. |
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Selecting Rocks
You can buy rocks at your local landscape supply store. Be sure to choose a
variety of round rocks and flat rocks. River rock is a good choice considering
it is primarily round. Slate is great for creating flat areas or roofs of caves.
Calcareous rock such as limestone is also good to include for its buffering
abilities. Make note of any rock that have a high amount of metal content and
avoid them. If you notice a rock that has a shiny or rust colored vein it should
be suspect. You can test for metal content on suspect rocks by pouring a small
amount of vinegar or lemon juice on the suspect area. If the rocks fizz or bubble
it needs to be discarded.
Also be wary of any rocks with excessively sharp edges. These sharp edges can
harm the fish if they run into it when darting through the aquarium.
Plants
African Cichlid aquariums can contain plants in small groups. Please remember
that these fish have a tendency to dig and will uproot plants. The plants will
need to be anchored well so the fish will have a tough time uprooting them.
Vallisneria beds occur naturally in the lake and would be good a plant choice.
Two other recommendations for plants in the African Cichlid aquarium are the
Anubias and Java Fern.
Substrate
Choosing the right substrate can also assist in buffering the water and maintaining
the kind of conditions that these fish prefer. We recommend using a darker color
substrate as a lighter color substrate can cause excessive reflection and stress
the fish. The darker substrates will also enhance the natural coloration of
the fish.
Eco-Complete African Cichlid Gravel
or
Eco-Complete African Cichlid Sand
Water Chemistry
The rift lakes in Africa generally have very alkaline, hard water.
The pH ranges on the high side and there is some salt content in the water.
Lake Malawi Water Chemistry
pH 7.8 to 8.4
Hardness 4.0 to 6.0 dH
Carbonate hardness 6.0 to 8.0 dKH
Surface temperature 76 to 85 F
You will want to keep your aquarium water with in these ranges to keep your
fish happy. Tap water is generally OK for use in an African Cichlid tank. You
will need to use a tap water conditioner / chlorine remover to remove the excess
chlorine and heavy metal content before adding to your aquarium. Test your tap
water and compare the results to the chart above. If you are not in these ranges
you will need to add some African Cichlid buffers to your water to achieve the
right conditions for your fish.
Additives
Control Equipment
Setup
This chart is a timeline describing step-by-step setup of your
African Cichlid aquarium. After the chart is an explanation of each step.
Timeline |
Day |
Action |
Before |
Research species of fish you wish to keep |
Before |
Collect equipment - Aquarium, Stand, Lights,
Filtration, Heater, Thermometer, Substrate and Rocks |
1 |
Choose location for aquarium |
1 |
Wet test your equipment |
2 |
Install egg crate bottom cover |
2 |
Install rocks |
2 |
Add substrate |
2 |
Add first batch of saltwater |
2 |
Fill the aquarium |
2 |
Start all equipment |
3 |
Begin Cycling aquarium |
30 |
Begin water changes and other maintenance
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36 |
Add 1-2 fish |
45 |
Water change (10-15% every two weeks from
now on) |
60 |
Add 1-2 more fish each month until stocked |
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Enjoy! |
After you have collected all the components you need to set up
your African Cichlid aquarium you can begin to assemble the system. This is
a good weekend project. Choose a good spot for your aquarium that is not too
close to a window or air vent. Direct sunlight can cause the tank to heat up
to dangerous temperatures very quickly and also can cause excessive algae growth.
Be sure to leave enough space behind the tank for equipment and check for clearance
from the wall. You will also want to make sure that the flooring will support
the weight of a full aquarium. Aquariums can weigh as much as 10-12 lbs per
gallon when full not including any rocks or gravel!
Take a moment to thoroughly clean the tank’s glass using only freshwater
and a new clean sponge. This will remove any dust or residue on the tank. You
want the glass to be sparking clear.
Wet Test
It’s a good idea to do a “wet test” with all your equipment.
You will need to fill the aquarium with tap water and check the aquarium for
any leaks. Install the filter, heater, lights and other equipment according
to the manufacturers instructions. Plug all the electrical equipment into a
grounded power strip. We recommend the use of a GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupt)
outlet to prevent any electrical mishaps. This will help protect you and your
aquatic pets!
Plug in the power strip and turn on all of your equipment. Check that the filter
is flowing properly, the lights are working and that the heater is doing its
job as well. You will want to run everything for about 24 hours as this will
also serve to clean the equipment a bit before you actually set everything up.
After your done with the ‘wet test” turn all of the equipment off
in the tank and drain out the tap water and unplug everything. Be sure and empty
the water out of the filter.
This is the typical aquarium setup for African Cichlids. Note - dual
filters are optional.
Aquascaping
If you plan on keeping Mbuna Cichlids you will want to have a good amount of
rock with lots of caves and overhangs. These areas will allow the fish to establish
natural territory and provide possible breeding sites. The substrate can be
mostly gravel with a bit of sandy areas.
The Peacock Cichlids are more of an open water species and do not require as
much rockwork. You will still want to have some rock in the tank. The substrate
can be mostly sand with a bit of gravel in some areas.
Installing the Rocks
Be sure to remove any equipment such as glass heaters and filter tubes before
you begin aquascaping. It is also a good idea to place a piece of “eggcrate
material” in the bottom of your tank before you place in any gravel or
rock. This will provide extra support for the rockwork and protect the glass
of the aquarium if a rock falls. If your tank is acrylic this can also help
protect the tank from being scratched by the rock.
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| Stacked rocks create a great environment for African
Cichlids. |
After placing the “eggcrate” you can begin placing in the base
rocks. These rocks should be placed directly on the “eggcrate” before
any gravel is added. African Cichlids like to dig and rocks placed on top of
gravel are more likely to topple.
After you get most of the foundation rock in place you can add the gravel and/or
sand. Rinse the gravel several times in a large bucket before adding it to the
aquarium. Fill in the areas around the rocks as much as possible. Note that
the gravel bed does not have to be very deep. You need just enough to cover
the “eggcrate” material and probably no more than 1” total.
Now you can build up the rest of the rockwork. You need to consider securing
the upper rockwork to prevent the rocks from falling over and breaking the aquarium
glass. You may use non-toxic silicone to secure the rocks as you work. For taller
rock structures it may be necessary to silicone some of the rocks, let it cure
for 24 hours, then build some more, let it cure for 24 hours and so on. This
method will create a more stable structure. Let the silicone cure completely
as directed before filling the aquarium.
Another option is to use Aqua-Stik to “glue” the rocks together.
This is a water friendly epoxy that cures quickly and also comes in a gray slate
color. Aqua-stik can be used and the tank filled immediately.
Filling the Aquarium
Tap water will usually work well for African Cichlid aquariums. Try to run the
water over the rocks as you are filling the tank to avoid disturbing the gravel.
Be sure to add some chlorine remover / water conditioner to the tap water. You
will also need to add some Cichlid salts and possibly some Cichlid buffer to
the water to match the conditions of Lake Malawi. Use a test kit and test the
water for the following parameters.
pH 7.8 to 8.4
Hardness 4.0 to 6.0 dH
Carbonate hardness 6.0 to 8.0 dKH
The temperature should be about 76 to 78 F. If it is lower than this you will
need to run the heater to bring it up to temp. After you fill the aquarium plug
in all the equipment and crank her up!
Once the aquarium is filled, the water parameters are correct and the equipment
has run for about 24 hours you may add 1-2 fish. Yippee! Keep in mind that it
usually takes about 4-6 weeks for the aquarium to cycle. You will be able to
add more fish after the cycle is complete. For more information on the Nitrogen
Cycle read our article on Cycling
Your Aquarium.
Species
There is a huge number of Malawi Cichlids that can be kept in
the aquarium. We can cover a few of the more popular here.
Mbuna
Yellow Lab
Labidochromis caeruleus
Temper: Semi-aggressive
Adult size: 5 in
Feeding: Omnivore |
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Red Zebra
Pseudotropheus zebra
Temper: Aggressive
Adult size: 5 in
Feeding: Omnivore |
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Johanni
Melanochromis johanni
Temper: Aggressive
Adult size: 4.5 in
Feeding: Omnivore |
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Red Top
Labeotropheus trewavasae
Temper: Semi-aggressive
Adult size: 4 in
Feeding: Omnivore |
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Peacocks
Red Shoulder
Aulonocara hansbaenschi
Temper: Semi-aggressive
Adult size: 4.5 in
Feeding: Omnivore |
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Electric Blue
Sciaenochromis freyeri
Temper: Aggressive
Adult size: 4.5 in
Feeding: Omnivore |
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A few things to keep in mind when stocking African Cichlids:
- Try to keep a trio of each species with one male to two females.
- Be sure to match sizes when adding fish. Do not place juveniles in a tank
stocked with adult size fish.
- “Crowding” can control the more aggressive species.
- Avoid keeping similar looking species that can be mistaken by males as
competition.
Stocking
A recommended stocking level for African Cichlids is about one adult fish (4-5”
size) for every 5-6 gallons of water. This is just a general guideline and you
may be able to keep more or less depending on the aggressiveness of the species
you choose to keep. Crowding the tank with slightly higher stocking levels can
control aggression but requires very good filtration and consistent water changes.
Feeding
African Cichlids are generally either herbivores or omnivores,
requiring some green food in their diet.
In the natural habitat of lake Malawi, many of them feed on 'Aufwachs' - a
German word which refers to the algae covering the rock. It is possible to recreate
this natural condition in the aquarium but it will most likely be necessary
to feed Spirulina flake as a substitute. They should also be fed a staple of
cichlid pellets and frozen/live foods such as brine shrimp. Most African Cichlids
are essentially grazers and will benefit from regular smaller feedings 2 –
3 times a day. Be sure and feed no more than they can consume in one minute.
Try to avoid feeding only dry flake, or any high protein foods such as bloodworm,
tubifex and beefheart. These are not suitable for Malawi Cichlids, and can cause
the fatal "Malawi bloat" condition.
Maintenance
Water changes
Water changes are the basis for successful aquarium keeping! This is the easiest
thing you can do as an aquarium owner to maintain a healthy environment for
your aquatic pets. Water changes help to remove high concentrations of contaminants
and replenish lost trace elements. You will need a few basic pieces of equipment
including a large, clean plastic bucket, a gravel vacuum, a thermometer and
African Cichlid additives (see Water Chemistry above).
Water changes are easy. Simply siphon out 15% to 20% of the aquarium water
into a bucket and dump it. You will need to replace it with water that matches
the aquariums current conditions especially temperature and pH. Note that any
very rapid changes in temperature or pH can stress your fish. Be sure to add
some chlorine remover / water conditioner if you are using tap water. You will
also need to add some Cichlid salts and Cichlid buffer to the water to match
the conditions of Lake Malawi. Use a test kit and test the water for the following
parameters:
pH 7.8 to 8.4
Hardness 4.0 to 6.0 dH
Carbonate hardness 6.0 to 8.0 dKH
A good water change schedule is about 20% of the aquarium volume every two
weeks. This is also a good time to vacuum the gravel. Although filters do a
great job of keeping the aquarium clean they may not remove all of the food
and debris. Over time this waste will end up collecting in the substrate. Try
to vacuum the gravel at every other water change.
Filter Maintenance
Each month you should take your filter apart and do the maintenance recommended
by the manufacturer. The chemical and mechanical media in the filter will need
to be replaced every four to six weeks. Try to alternate the replacement of
this media to avoid depleting your filter of biological cultures. The biological
media should not need to be replaced if you maintain the other parts of your
filter system.
Cleaning the Glass
Keeping your glass sparkling clear can significantly enhance the enjoyment of
your aquarium. Use a magnet cleaner to keep the inside glass sparkling clear
and free of algae build up. If the glass gets encrusted you my need to use a
scraper to remove the algae.
You may also need to clean the outside of the glass to remove fingerprints
and other residue. Use a clean paper towel with freshwater to clean the outside
glass. If the outside glass gets excessively dirty you may use glass cleaner
to clean it. Be extremely careful when using glass cleaner. Do not spray the
cleaner directly onto the tank glass. Spray a paper towel, away from the tank,
and then wipe the glass clean. It is also a good idea to wipe the tank down
with freshwater to remove any leftover glass cleaner residue.
Acrylic aquariums must be treated with special care since acrylic scratches
very easily. Be sure to use cleaning devices designed for use on acrylic aquariums.
Books
If you are interested in more information on keeping African Cichlids
here is a list of some great books:
Guide to Malawi Cichlids (Back to Nature)
by Ad Konings
The Pictorial Guide (Cichlids)
by Pablo Tepoot, Ian Tepoot
Sam Pol
30 years ago Sam Pol didn't know he would still be keeping aquariums today...what
he did know is that aquariums were fascinating. He used to "collect things"
from the Gulf beaches at low tide to take back and stock his trio of 10G "Metaframe"
saltwater tanks. That fascination of "fish tanks" continues today. Sam has been
sharing his experiences of both freshwater and saltwater aquariums for several
years now through his articles appearing here on aquabuys.com.
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