Nano Reef Aquarium
by Sam Pol
(updated on 1-11-09)
You probably have seen a nano reef. They are quite spectacular for several reasons.
They are incredibly stunning recreations of beautifully diverse tropical coral
reefs. So read on to learn more about this unique perspective to reef keeping.

A Nano Reef style aquarium with various
soft corals. |
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Easy Nano Reefin'
It is amazing that so much color can be in an aquarium. They also seem impossibly
too small to contain such a gorgeous and complicated ecosystem.
Here are some common thoughts:
“Reef aquariums are too difficult”
“You can’t do saltwater aquariums in less than a 30 gallon tank”
Reef aquariums are not that difficult.
Nano reef aquariums require a basic understanding of the animals you
decide to keep. They also require minimal maintenance with a water change every
7-10 days.
Most nano reefs are between 7 to 12 gallons.
A Nano Reef is basically a small reef tank of less than twenty gallons.
These types of small reefs can be maintained without the larger reef aquarium
equipment such as a protein skimmer or calcium reactor. The frequent water changes
(3-4 times per month), Live Rock/Live Sand natural filtration and conservative
stocking of reef animals makes for an uncomplicated and pleasurable marine aquarium
experience.
Aquarium
A 10-20 Gallon aquarium is a good choice for starting a Nano Reef. A standard
style aquarium offers a lot of flexibility with easy equipment upgrades such
as a refugium. You may also choose another aquarium such as the popular 12 gallon
Nano Cube.
Filtration
The natural filtration method of using live rock and live sand with liberal
water movement has proven to be a successful method of nano reef keeping. Live
rock refers to pieces of coral or coral rock from the coral reef that have broken
off and fallen to the ocean bottom and become covered with encrusting organisms,
such as coralline algae and sponges.
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| Live Rock is the primary filtration in nano reef
aquariums. |
Live sand also plays an important role in filtration. Live sand refers to a
sand bed that has become colonized with nitrifying bacteria. In an aquarium
this can happen naturally over time or the sand bed can be seeded with pre-colonized
sand from an established saltwater aquarium or you may also purchase pre-colonized
live sand.
The Live Rock and Live Sand will be the basis for your "living" biological
filter.
You will need approximately 8-12 lbs of Live Rock for a 2-3" deep sand
bed.
Water Movement
Water movement is important in a Nano Reef aquarium to prevent dead spots and
provide suitable flow through the natural live rock filter. You will need a
turnover flow rate of at least 10 times the aquarium volume per hour. A 18 gallon
aquarium would require a minimum of 180 to 200 gallons per hour of
turnover.
The hang on back filter is a nice addition as it allows the occasional use
of filter media for water polishing. Normally the HOB filter and the power head
are used without sponge filter media or bio media leaving this filtration job
to your live rock and live sand. Some hobbyists do use carbon media other filter
resins to help remove excess nutrients and pollutants. A reef grade chemical
media such Carbonit-P is a good choice.
Lighting
Lighting is important in a nano reef as most of the corals kept in these style
aquariums require light to survive.
A good rule of thumb is to use about 4-6 watts per gallon of lighting
for around 8-10 hours a day.
We also recommend a mixed spectrum combining 10,000K bulbs with actinic
blue to render the best colors and growth of your corals. Compact fluorescent lighting is
usually sufficient in most nano reefs.
Heating
Having super reliable heating in any style aquarium is very important. Most
saltwater fish prefer a water temperature of 76-78F. A good rule of thumb for
selecting aquarium heaters is to have about 5 watts per gallon. Choose a compact
heater that can be hidden behind your live rock reef.
Thermometer
Monitoring your temperature on a small aquarium is very important as the temperature
can change more quickly than in a larger tank. We recommend the use of a digital
thermometer. The accuracy of these units is amazing and most have a built in
alarm for low/high temperature. This offers better protection for your investment
in your aquatic pets than the cheaper thermometers.
Habitat
What is a reef?
Webster’s definition:
Reef
1 a: a chain of rocks or coral or a ridge of sand at or near the surface
of water.
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"Through the window of my mask I see a wall of coral its surface
a living kaleidoscope of lilac flecks, splashes of gold, reddish streaks
and yellows, all tinged by the familiar transparent blue of the sea."
Jacques Yves Cousteau, 1971 |
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| Live Sand refers to an aragonite substrate that
has become colonized with nitrifying bacteria and beneficial micro-organisms. |
So this is what we will create in our aquarium but in miniature
or nano form. The live rock will form the reef structure with caves and overhangs
that the corals, crabs, snails, shrimp and fish can populate. The live rock
will also be your primary biological filter.
Live sand will also serve as part of the nano reef habitat. There
are some fish and snails that live in and around the sand and we will discuss
them in this article. The sand bed also serves as part of your biological filter.
Substrate
The substrate should consist of a layer of medium grade (1-2 mm) reef sand (aragonite).
You will need enough sand to create about a 2” deep sand bed. The sand
bed will also need to be seeded with live sand pre-colonized with nitrifying
bacteria.
Water Chemistry
We need to replicate seawater as closely as possible to have a successful
nano reef. The following water parameters represent the acceptable ranges for
reef aquariums:
Temp |
76-78° F |
Specific Gravity |
1.023 |
pH |
8.2 to 8.3 |
Alkalinity |
8 to 12 dKH |
Calcium |
400 to 420 mg/L |
Ammonia |
0 |
Nitrite |
0 |
Nitrate |
0 |
Test kits come in handy for verifying water parameters especially during initial
setup and cycling.
Salt Mixes
There are several saltwater mixes available that are great for mixing synthetic
seawater. Here are the salt mixes that we recommend. Use a hydrometer to test
your salt levels when mixing.
Additives
Adding trace elements to your nano reef aquarium may be necessary as the aquarium
becomes populated and begins to deplete these elements more rapidly. This can
help maintain coral growth and health in between water changes.
Setup
This chart is a timeline describing step-by-step setup of your
Nano Reef aquarium. After the chart is an explanation of each step.
Timeline |
Day |
Action |
Before |
Research species of fish you wish to keep |
Before |
Collect equipment - Aquarium, Stand, Lights,
Power Heads, HOB Filter, Heater, Thermometer, Hydrometer, Salt Mix |
1 |
Choose location for aquarium |
1 |
Wet test your equipment |
2 |
Purchase Live Rock and Live Sand |
2 |
Begin mixing saltwater |
2 |
Install sand bed |
2 |
Add first batch of saltwater |
2 |
Install live rock |
2 |
Add live sand to sand bed |
2 |
Fill the aquarium |
2 |
Start all equipment |
3 |
Begin Cycling aquarium |
15 |
Add cleanup crew |
20 |
Begin water changes and other maintenance
|
30 |
Water change (10-15% every two weeks from
now on) |
31 |
Add 1-2 corals |
60 |
Add 1 fish |
| |
Enjoy! |
Choose Location
Choose a location for your tank that is not in direct sunlight. Direct sunlight
can cause the tank to heat up to dangerous temperatures very quickly and also
can cause excessive algae growth. Be sure to leave enough space behind the tank
for equipment. You will also need to pick a location that can handle the weight
of the fully set up tank. A 10 gallon nano reef tank can weigh anywhere from
95 to 120 lbs when completely full!

An aquarium can also be a decorative
addition to your home.
Wet Test
It is a good idea to do a “wet test” with all your equipment. You
will need to fill the aquarium with tap water and check the aquarium for any
leaks. Better to find any potential equipment problems now than later. Install
the power head, HOB filter, heater, lights and other equipment according to
the manufacturers instructions. Plug all the electrical equipment into a grounded
power strip. We recommend the use of a GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupt)
outlet to prevent any electrical mishaps. This will help protect you and your
aquatic pets!

Example Nano Reef aquarium setup showing
equipment placement.
Plug in the power strip and check the function of all of your equipment. Check
that the lights are working and that the heater is doing its job as well. Check
the water flow from the power head and the HOB filter. Note that the mechanical
filter media that usually comes with power filters is not normally used on a
nano reef. You may use the sponge media occasionally for water polishing but
it is probably best not to use the media all the time.
You will want to run everything for about 24 hours as this will also serve
to clean the equipment a bit before you actually set everything up. After your
done with the "wet test” turn all of the equipment off in the aquarium
and drain out the tap water and unplug everything. Be sure and empty the water
out of the hob filter as well.
Mixing the saltwater
Be sure you have your live rock and live sand ready to go before you begin.
You will need to purchase a large container such as a 5 gallon bucket for mixing
your saltwater. You will also need to use your powerhead and heater while mixing
the saltwater. You may need to purchase an extra one of each of these pieces
of equipment for mixing after your aquarium is setup. It is also good to have
an extra power head and heater in case the units on your aquarium fail.
We recommend the use of RO/DI (Reverse Osmosis/De-ionized) water
for the basis of your saltwater mix. The use of RO/DI water will eliminate a
larger number of problems that can normally arise from the use of tap water.
Tap water contains many impurities and contaminants that are not suitable for
many saltwater species. Large amounts of phosphates and silicates in tap water
can contribute to nuisance algae blooms.
RO/DI water can be purchased from your grocery store pre-bottled
or from a vending machine. Local fish stores may also sell RO/DI water. Another
option is to get your own RO/DI water purification filter. If you plan on being
a saltwater aquarium hobbyist for any length of time then a RO/DI unit is a
great investment.
Fill the mixing bucket with a known amount of RO/DI water. You
may want to mark off the sides of your bucket by filling a gallon jug, pouring
it in the bucket and marking the outside of the container with a marker. Repeat
this process until you have marked the majority of the container with 1 gallon
increments.
Add the indicated amount of salt mix (see manufacturers instructions)
for the amount of water in the bucket. This is usually about ½ cup per
gallon. You can use a large spoon to initially mix the salt. After adding the
salt mix drop your powerhead into the bucket and plug it in. Let the powerhead
run for about an hour to thoroughly mix the salt.
Preparing the sand
While the saltwater is mixing you can prepare the sand for the aquarium. You
will want to use enough sand to create about a 2” deep sand bed. If your
sand comes packaged dry it is a good idea to rinse it with some tap water in
a 5 gallon bucket. Fill the bucket about 1/3 full of sand, then fill with water
and stir. The water will become quite cloudy with the dust from packaging. Let
the sand settle for a while and then dump off the rinse water. Repeat this process
a few times until the water becomes less cloudy. Do a final rinse with some
RO/DI water. Finally, add the rinsed sand to the aquarium. Smooth out the sand
to create a fairly uniform depth of about 2”. Note that it is not necessary
to rinse live sand.
Adding the saltwater
Test the water for specific gravity using a hydrometer. The specific gravity
should be between 1.022-1.024. Adjust the specific gravity if necessary by adding
RO/DI water to lower it or by adding salt mix to raise it.
Add your first batch of saltwater to the aquarium by slowly pouring
it over a plate to prevent excessive stirring of the sand. You may also add
a hose to the return end of your power head to pump the water from the bucket
to the aquarium. Start mixing another batch of saltwater if you need more to
completely fill the aquarium.
Aquascaping
While the next batch of saltwater is mixing you can begin to aquascape your
aquarium. Be sure to remove any equipment such as glass heaters and filter tubes
before you begin aquascaping.
You will want to select the best Live Rock that you can find. Good quality
live rock will have nice coralline algae growth and is usually already cured.
Cured Live Rock will have an ocean type smell whereas uncured live rock will
stink! You will also notice lots of little creatures on the Live Rock such as
small feather duster worms and other tiny organisms such as small sponges. The
holding tank water should be crystal clear and also not have any excessively
stinky odors. It is sold by the pound and costs range from $6.00 to $10.00 per
lb. Live Rock is available at local fish stores and through mail order over
the Internet.
Stacking the rocks
There are many types and personal styles of scenes that can be created in the
nano reef aquarium. In this article we will recommend a central rock structure
with swimming space on each side of the aquarium.
Start by building the foundation for your structure. Foundation
rocks should be smaller pieces of rock. The goal is to create areas that water
can pass through and around while minimizing the amount of the sand bed that
you cover. This also creates cave type areas for fish and other creatures to
hang out in. These foundation rocks also need to be pushed into the sand so
that any digging species that you may add to the aquarium don’t topple
the rocks.
Try to create a few small caves for your
nano reef creatures.
The main idea is to create an environment that the animals can
be comfortable in. You also need upper surfaces to place corals so they can
receive the light they need.
The next step is to place the upper rock structure. These can
be larger live rock pieces and should be supported by the foundation rocks.
Take into consideration the natural upper surfaces of the live rock that need
to be facing the light. These surfaces will usually have more coralline algae
growth.

Top view of reef structure showing areas for
coral placement.
Try to avoid placing the Live Rock directly against the glass
leaving sufficient room for good water flow. Also remember to leave enough room
on the sides and front of the reef structure to allow cleaning the glass with
a magnet cleaner.
Seeding the sand bed
Seeding the sand bed with pre-colonized sand from an established saltwater or
reef aquarium can give you a head start on cycling the aquarium. You can get
some live sand from a fellow hobbyist or purchase one of the pre-colonized mixes
available and add it to the top layer of your sand bed after you add the live
rock. Note that this step is not necessary if you decide to use all live sand.
Filling the aquarium
Once the sand and live rock have been installed you can fill the rest of the
aquarium with the mixed saltwater. Add additional saltwater until the aquarium
is filled. Re-install any equipment you removed earlier and power up.
After the aquarium has circulated for a few hours test the saltwater
for the following parameters:
Temp |
78-79° F |
Specific Gravity |
1.025 |
pH |
8.1 to 8.4 |
Alkalinity |
7 to 9 dKH |
Once the aquarium is filled, the water parameters are correct and the equipment
has run for about 24 hours you can begin the waiting game. Keep in mind that
it may take up to 6 weeks for the aquarium to cycle (become stable) and that
patience is key during this process. You can verify the progress of the cycle
by testing your aquarium for ammonia, nitrite and then finally nitrate. Test
for ammonia first ever other day until you see the ammonia levels rise and then
fall. You will then see the same pattern with nitrite and then nitrate. This
process normally takes several weeks. Aquariums that are setup with live sand
and live rock that has been cured will experience faster cycles of only 10-14
days. For more information on the Nitrogen Cycle read our article on Cycling
Your Aquarium.
You will then be able to add corals after about 1 month and a fish after about
2 months. Adding too much livestock too quickly can be dangerous. The small
volume in a nano reef needs to adjust to changes slowly.
Your Cleanup Critters
You will be able to add hermit crabs and snails possibly as soon
as 2 weeks after you setup. This depends on how quickly your aquarium cycles.
The cleanup crew is basically the janitorial staff of the reef! The cleanup
crew consists of various invertebrates that have a great reputation for keeping
the tank tidy.
Cleanup crews for Nano Reef tanks usually consist mostly of snails and hermit
crabs. Astraea Snails, Turbo Snails and Margarita Snails are employed to keep
the glass clean. Nassarius Snails are good for both glass duty and also to stir
the sand bed. Hermit Crabs are great for devouring excess algae and detritus.
Left handed Hermits, Scarlet Reef Hermits and Blue-leg Hermits are the most
commonly used among the Hermit Crabs.
Blue Leg Hermit
Clibanarius tricolor
Temper: Peaceful
Adult size: 1 in
Feeding: Omnivore |
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Scarlet Reef Hermit
Paguristes cadenati
Temper: Peaceful
Adult size: 1 in
Feeding: Herbivore |
|
Astraea Snail
Astraea tecta
Temper: Peaceful
Adult size: 1 in
Feeding: Herbivore |
|
Nassarius Snail
Nassarius vibex
Temper: Peaceful
Adult size: 1 in
Feeding: Omnivore |
|
Peppermint Shrimp
Lysmata wurdemanni
Temper: Peaceful
Adult size: 2 in
Feeding: Omnivore |
|
The number of snails and crabs you add depends on the size of your aquarium.
A good rule of thumb is to add about one snail per 1-2 gallons and one hermit crab
per 3-5 gallons. A good cleanup crew for a 10 gallon Nano Reef would be:
| Snails |
Crabs & Shrimp |
| 4 Astraea Snails |
1 Blue-Leg Hermit |
| 3 Margarita Snails |
2 Scarlet Reef Hermits |
| 3 Nassarius Snails |
1 Peppermint Shrimp |
Pay close attention to your water parameters after adding your cleanup crew
as you may experience a small secondary cycling period. Test your water for
any ammonia, nitrite or nitrate peaks. You will also want to begin regular water
changes of at least 10 -15% (about 1 gallon) every week to 10 days.
Adding Corals
After your nano reef has been up and running for about a month you can begin
to add some corals. A few good starter corals would be Mushroom Corals, Star
Polyps, Zoanthid Corals or Pulsing Xenia. Here is a bit more about those species:
Blue Stripe Mushroom
Actinodiscus sp.
Light Requirements: Moderate (4-5 watts per gallon)
Water Flow: Medium
Feeding: Feeds on water born particulates and nutrients.
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Green Star Polyps
Pachyclavularia sp.
Light Requirements: Moderate (4-5 watts per gallon)
Water Flow: Medium
Feeding: Feeds on water born particulates and may benefit
from micro-plankton feedings. |
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Colony Polyp
Zoanthid sp.
Light Requirements: Medium High (5-7 watts per gallon)
Water Flow: Medium
Feeding: Feeds primarily on it’s own symbiotic
algae (zooxanthellae) and requires good lighting. |
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Pulsing Xenia
Xenia sp.
Light Requirements: Moderate (4-5 watts per gallon)
Water Flow: Medium
Feeding: Feeds on water born particulates and may benefit
from micro-plankton feedings. |
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Adding Fish
There are a good number of fish that you can keep in a nano reef aquarium.
The main requirements for nano reef fish is that they need to be small and not
too aggressive. Here is a small list of some of the nano reef compatible fish:
Royal Gramma
Gramma loreto
Temper: Peaceful
Adult size: 2.5 in.
Feeding: Carnivore
One of my favorites! Requires caves and darker areas. |
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Yellow Clown Goby
Gobiodon okinawae
Temper: Peaceful
Adult size: 1 1/2 in.
Feeding: Carnivore |
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Yellow Watchman Goby
Cryptocentrus cinctus
Temper: Peaceful
Adult size: 2 1/2 in.
Feeding: Carnivore
Requires a deep sand bed. Can form a symbiotic relationship with a Pistol
Shrimp (Alpheus sp.). |
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Percula Clownfish
Amphiprion percula
Temper: Semi-Aggressive
Adult size: 2 1/2 in.
Feeding: Carnivore |
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Stocking
One of the keys to keeping a successful nano reef is to keep the bio load low
and not overstock the aquarium with too many animals. Fish are the biggest contributors
to the waste in your aquarium so should be kept sparingly especially in a nano
reef.
In a 10 gallon nano reef you can only keep about 2-3 small fish. This is based
on the ½” of adult fish per gallon rule of thumb. This leaves us
about 5” of adult size fish total. Two Percula Clownfish would be a good
choice. With some of the smaller gobies you may be able to keep 3 fish. Keeping
fish larger than 2-3” (Adult Size) is not recommended. Stick with the
smaller species and the fish will be happier.
Feeding
Feeding your fish and corals is easy if you know what each of your animals
requires as part of its diet. The other important thing about feeding in a nano
reef is to feed only what can be eaten by the creatures in your tank. You need
to feed just enough food for each fish to get a few bites and not much more.
Some of the excess will likely get consumed by your cleanup crew in case you
do slightly overfeed.
A decent carnivore fish diet:
Weekly feedings of small amounts of live foods such as live brine shrimp will
also greatly benefit the aquarium. You may also need to target feed your corals
if they require micro-plankton or other foods. This can be done easily with
a squirter and a micronized food like Coral
Frenzy.
Maintenance
Water Changes
In a nano reef setup with minimal ways to export nutrients regular water changes
are the most important maintenance task you can do. Water changes help to remove
high concentrations of dissolved organic compounds and replenish lost trace
elements. You will need a few basic pieces of equipment including a large, clean
plastic bucket, an aquarium siphon, a thermometer, a hydrometer and salt mix.
Your basic 5 gallon bucket. A must have
maintenance tool.
You should change about 10% of the water in the aquarium about
3 times a month. A good way to remember is to do water changes on the 10th,
20th and 30th day of each month.
Follow the manufacturers directions to mix your replacement saltwater
before you start your water change. In a 10 gallon aquarium you will need to
change about 1 gallon of water. Your 5 gallon bucket will come in very handy
for water changes.
We recommend that you use RO/DI water as the basis for your saltwater
mix. Add the indicated amount of salt mix (see manufacturers instructions) for
the amount of water in the bucket. This is usually about ½ cup per gallon.
You can use a large spoon to initially mix the salt. After adding the salt mix
drop your extra powerhead into the bucket and plug it in. Add a heater if necessary
to bring the temp up to the 76-78F range. Let the powerhead run overnight to
thoroughly mix the salt.
Test the water for specific gravity using a hydrometer. The specific
gravity should be between 1.021-1.023 and should match the specific gravity
of the aquarium water. Adjust the specific gravity if necessary by adding RO/DI
water to lower it or by adding salt mix to raise it.
Remove the necessary amount of water from your aquarium (1 gallon
in this example). At every other water change you should use a turkey baster
to carefully blow any detritus off the rocks and sand. Do this before you start
the water change to help remove waste. Add the new saltwater into the aquarium
and bring it up to the normal level. That’s it for the water change.
Filter and Powerhead Maintenance
Your pumps will need to be cleaned every month or so. Most powerheads and pumps
come apart easily so you can clean the impeller.
If you are using any carbon media in the HOB filter change it out every 4-6
weeks.
Cleaning the Glass
Make cleaning the aquarium glass an easy chore with a cleaning magnet. Various
forms of algae will begin to grow on the glass and will need to be scraped off.
Optional Equipment
Once your nano reef has been set up for a couple of months you may consider
adding a refugium to your setup. A refugium or ecosystem filter is a smaller
vessel of water that is hung behind or placed beneath the main aquarium and
can contain extra equipment for the main aquarium such as heaters, top off units,
a protein skimmer and other accessories you may decide to add. The refugium
can be a natural food source for the aquarium providing a place for micro crustaceans
to grow. The refugium also adds extra water volume to the system and makes it
easier to maintain stability. The refugium runs with it's own set of lighting,
has a separate substrate and can use macro algae as a sort of filter. This type
of filtration removes the nitrates and phosphates from the aquarium’s
water through the use of macro algae such as Caulerpa. The substrate is usually
made of a mineral mud type mix that contains necessary trace elements and nitrifying
bacteria. The refugium light is run on a reverse schedule from the main aquarium
light to reduce the natural daytime/nighttime pH swing in the aquarium.
Nano Reef Setup Kits
If you are thinking about setting up a Nano Reef Aquarium you should
check out our Nano Reef Aqua Packs™. These kits contain a set of equipment
and accessories designed to make starting a Nano Reef aquarium much easier.
We have chosen the components based on offering the most reliable set-up and
easy maintenance. Each kit includes unique, customized setup instructions only
available from Aqua Buys.
Other Information
If you are interested in learning more about Nano Reef aquariums and Marine
Aquarium keeping take a look at these books.
Sam Pol
30 years ago Sam Pol didn't know he would still be keeping aquariums today...what
he did know is that aquariums were fascinating. He used to "collect things"
from the Gulf beaches at low tide to take back and stock his trio of 10G "Metaframe"
saltwater tanks. That fascination of "fish tanks" continues today. Sam has been
sharing his experiences of both freshwater and saltwater aquariums for several
years now through his articles appearing here on aquabuys.com.
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